Adhesives: Choosing the Right Glue for Wood, Metal, Plastic and Repairs

Most failed repairs come down to the wrong glue rather than a bad brand. PVA wood glue is stronger than the wood itself on a tight joint but useless on metal; super glue grabs in seconds but turns brittle under shock; two-part epoxy fills gaps and bonds unlike materials but needs mixing and cure time.

Our lists below are organised by job, so you can go straight to the glue that suits your project instead of buying an all-purpose tube that does nothing especially well.

How to choose an adhesive

Start with the two materials

Porous materials like wood, paper and fabric bond well with water-based glues. Non-porous ones like metal, glass and most plastics need epoxy, cyanoacrylate or a polyurethane adhesive. Polyethylene and polypropylene resist almost everything, so check the label lists them.

Gap filling vs tight joints

Thin glues need parts that meet closely. If the joint is loose or the surfaces are uneven, epoxy or polyurethane glue fills the gap and still holds.

Open time and clamp time

Fast-setting glue is convenient for small fixes but leaves no time to adjust a big assembly. For furniture and glue-ups, a longer open time is worth more than speed.

Indoor, outdoor or wet

Standard PVA softens with moisture. For outdoor projects, cutting boards or anything washed often, look for a water-resistant (Type II) or waterproof (Type I) rating, or use epoxy.

Shelf life

Once opened, super glue and some epoxies thicken within months. Smaller bottles that you finish quickly often work out cheaper than a big one that goes off.